CHURCHES
Paris has a LOT of churches. I visited several of the famous ones and a few of the not so famous ones and I realized that I enjoyed the not so famous ones more.
NOTRE DAME (27.04.10)
Cathedral de Notre Dame is the most visited site in Paris and it is not difficult to believe that when you see the crowd. The work on the cathedral was started in 1163 AD though it took 200 years to finish. It was badly damaged during the revolution and had to be renovated in the 19th century. The building has all the typical signs of Gothic architecture with rose windows (windows of stained glass in the shape of a flower) and flying buttress (arched exterior supports). Notre Dame de Paris was one of the first Gothic cathedrals, and its construction spanned the Gothic period. It is a beautiful cathedral with lovely stained glass.
Cathedral de Notre Dame is the most visited site in Paris and it is not difficult to believe that when you see the crowd. The work on the cathedral was started in 1163 AD though it took 200 years to finish. It was badly damaged during the revolution and had to be renovated in the 19th century. The building has all the typical signs of Gothic architecture with rose windows (windows of stained glass in the shape of a flower) and flying buttress (arched exterior supports). Notre Dame de Paris was one of the first Gothic cathedrals, and its construction spanned the Gothic period. It is a beautiful cathedral with lovely stained glass.
Notre Dame is literally the centre of Paris. Distances to all places in France from Paris are measured from Notre Dame.
SACRE COUER (31.04.10)
The Basilique de Sacre Couer is a huge basilica, built on the highest point in the city, at the top of the Montmartre Hill overlooking the city. I got my first glimpse of this cathedral from the suburban train on the journey from Gare St Nom La Breteche to La Defense. Along with Eiffel Tower, it dominates the skyline of Paris. Up close, it is an imposing structure and like many big structures is better viewed from a distance.
The construction started in 1876 but it was not consecrated till 1919. It was built from contributions made by Parisian Catholics. The view from here is amazing. On a clear day, you can apparently see for 30kms. I don’t know if I could see for 30 kms but it was a pretty spectacular view.
NOTRE-DAME DE REIMS (04.05.10)
The kings of France were once crowned at the Cathedral de Notre Dame in Reims. It replaces an older church, destroyed by a fire in 1211, which was built on the site of the basilica where Clovis was baptized by Saint Remi, bishop of Reims, in AD 496. That original structure had been erected on the site of the Roman baths.
It has interesting stained glasses ranging from the 13th to the 20th century. The rose window over the main portal and the gallery beneath are of rare magnificence. The cathedral was badly damaged in the WWI and had to be renovated. Of the two rose windows, the lower one was replaced after the WWI while the upper one is the original from the 13th century.
There is a stained window by Chagall in the central chapel (behind the alter). The two panes depict stories of Abraham and Jesus. I found it pretty amazing that the Catholic church allowed a Jew to do a window of the cathedral.
Manufacture of champagne so intertwined with the identity of people here that there is a stained glass that depicts the process of making champagne.
The kings of France were once crowned at the Cathedral de Notre Dame in Reims. It replaces an older church, destroyed by a fire in 1211, which was built on the site of the basilica where Clovis was baptized by Saint Remi, bishop of Reims, in AD 496. That original structure had been erected on the site of the Roman baths.
It has interesting stained glasses ranging from the 13th to the 20th century. The rose window over the main portal and the gallery beneath are of rare magnificence. The cathedral was badly damaged in the WWI and had to be renovated. Of the two rose windows, the lower one was replaced after the WWI while the upper one is the original from the 13th century.
There is a stained window by Chagall in the central chapel (behind the alter). The two panes depict stories of Abraham and Jesus. I found it pretty amazing that the Catholic church allowed a Jew to do a window of the cathedral.
Manufacture of champagne so intertwined with the identity of people here that there is a stained glass that depicts the process of making champagne.
BASILIQUE DE MARY MAGDALENE (29.04.10)
On my tour of the Burgundy region, we spent the afternoon in Vezelay, a charming town of 300 people. It was built in the 12th century in the Romanesque style. There is a collar bone here which was believe to be of Mary Magdalene and hence this became a major pilgrimage centre. However sometime in the middle of the the middle ages, the Pope declared that this wasn’t Mary’s bone, and that her bones were in some church in Spain. And this town lost its popularity. However recently carbon dating was done on the bone and it was found that this bone belongs to a woman who lived 2000 years ago. The basilica however never regained its popularity as a pilgrimage centre and now is visited only by the locals and a few travelers off the beaten track.
There is a lot of carving in this basilica. Over the main entrance there is a sculpture of Jesus and Archangel Michael with people on both sides. The archangel has a balance and is deciding who goes to heaven. Hell is represented by the open mouth of a crocodile.
On my tour of the Burgundy region, we spent the afternoon in Vezelay, a charming town of 300 people. It was built in the 12th century in the Romanesque style. There is a collar bone here which was believe to be of Mary Magdalene and hence this became a major pilgrimage centre. However sometime in the middle of the the middle ages, the Pope declared that this wasn’t Mary’s bone, and that her bones were in some church in Spain. And this town lost its popularity. However recently carbon dating was done on the bone and it was found that this bone belongs to a woman who lived 2000 years ago. The basilica however never regained its popularity as a pilgrimage centre and now is visited only by the locals and a few travelers off the beaten track.
There is a lot of carving in this basilica. Over the main entrance there is a sculpture of Jesus and Archangel Michael with people on both sides. The archangel has a balance and is deciding who goes to heaven. Hell is represented by the open mouth of a crocodile.
Inside the church, one each pillar, there are carving depicting stories from the gospels for people to know.
STE – CHAPALLE (27.04.10)
This is the church that I found the prettiest of them all. It is not one of the most frequented places. It is tucked away inside the walls of the law courts and you have to go through security checks to get in. I must look like a typical tourist (which is not surprising as I carried the LP Paris in my hand the whole time) and I was standing at the back of a long queue when a security officer came and asked me if I am going to the church and allowed me to cut to the top of the queue. I was also not frisked and my bags were not checked like the rest of the crowd. The ground floor is an exquisite chapel and once you climb the steep, winding steps to the upper floor, the stained glass and sunlight streaming through it takes your breath away. This chapel has Paris’ finest and oldest stained glass collection. I went on a sunny day and the light was extra – ordinary. Would have liked to spend hours here and you can feel the peace and serenity here among the beautiful stained windows.
This is the church that I found the prettiest of them all. It is not one of the most frequented places. It is tucked away inside the walls of the law courts and you have to go through security checks to get in. I must look like a typical tourist (which is not surprising as I carried the LP Paris in my hand the whole time) and I was standing at the back of a long queue when a security officer came and asked me if I am going to the church and allowed me to cut to the top of the queue. I was also not frisked and my bags were not checked like the rest of the crowd. The ground floor is an exquisite chapel and once you climb the steep, winding steps to the upper floor, the stained glass and sunlight streaming through it takes your breath away. This chapel has Paris’ finest and oldest stained glass collection. I went on a sunny day and the light was extra – ordinary. Would have liked to spend hours here and you can feel the peace and serenity here among the beautiful stained windows.
EGLISE ST-EUSTACHE (28.04.10)
This church was n oton my ‘list’, but after a wine tasting class, I had some time to spare and I was wondering where to go. This looked liked the nearest place, so decided to walk to the church and was glad I decided to. Construction started in 1532 and this is one of the most magnificent churches in Paris. What I liked most about this church was the gargantuan organ with 8000 pipes from 1854. Someone (or couple of people) were playing the organ when I was there and it was amazing. I sat down in the last pew and listened for half an hour.
This church was n oton my ‘list’, but after a wine tasting class, I had some time to spare and I was wondering where to go. This looked liked the nearest place, so decided to walk to the church and was glad I decided to. Construction started in 1532 and this is one of the most magnificent churches in Paris. What I liked most about this church was the gargantuan organ with 8000 pipes from 1854. Someone (or couple of people) were playing the organ when I was there and it was amazing. I sat down in the last pew and listened for half an hour.
L’EGLISE DE ST MARTIN (29.04.10)
The first stop we made in Burgundy was Chablis. On our way to the wine cellars, we passed this beautiful 13th century church dedicated to St Martin.
L'EGLISE DE ST GERMAIN DES PRES (30.04.10)
This was again not in my list. I wanted to go to Eglise St Sulpice, but when I got on the metro, I realized that the metro station St. Sulpice was closed for work. So I got out at the previous metro St Germain des pres. I climbed the stairs to the exit the station and this church was what I saw first. I remember reading about it in LP Paris, so decided to walk in. I was happy I did that.
There are 3 churches that claim to be Paris’s oldest church and this is one of them. Built in the 11th century on the site of a 6th century abbey, some parts of the original abbey is still there.. a small chapel to the left as you enter. It was pretty awesome. This was the dominant church in Paris until Notre Dame was completed in the 13th century.
The vaulted ceiling is painted to resemble as starry sky and is pretty.
There are 3 churches that claim to be Paris’s oldest church and this is one of them. Built in the 11th century on the site of a 6th century abbey, some parts of the original abbey is still there.. a small chapel to the left as you enter. It was pretty awesome. This was the dominant church in Paris until Notre Dame was completed in the 13th century.
The vaulted ceiling is painted to resemble as starry sky and is pretty.
EGLISE ST SULPICE (30.04.10)
With the help of the map, I walked from Eglise St Germain des Pres to Eglise St Sulpice through the lovely streets of St Germain. I was very disappointed when I reached the church for the facade was covered and there was clearly a lot of work happening. I went to the entrance and it said that the church was closed for renovation. Thought I'd take a walk around the church and I saw a side door open and a person slip out. Cautiously I stepped in and I instantly realized why this was so popular.
Made famous by Dan Brown’s 'Da Vinci Code', this church was built in 1646. From inside, it is pretty breathtaking and at the same time pretty dilapidated. There are famous frescoes here painted by Delacroix depicting Jacob wrestling with the angel and the Archangel Michael wrestling with Satan. I had high expectations from these frescoes but was disappointed as it was quite run down. I guess the renovation process will take care of it too.
EGLISE DE SAINT PAUL (30.04.10)
A stop on walk through the charming Marais district was the church of Saint Paul . This church was built in 1627.
There was choir practice happening when I walked and I spent a blissful 15 minutes listening to them. The organ especially sounded very good.
A stop on walk through the charming Marais district was the church of Saint Paul . This church was built in 1627.
There was choir practice happening when I walked and I spent a blissful 15 minutes listening to them. The organ especially sounded very good.
L'EGLISE DE SAINT JEAN DE MONTMARTRE (30.04.10)
On the left, as soon you climb out of the steps at Metro Abbessess is a beautiful church in the art nouveau style. It was built in the early 1900s because the people at the base of the hill found it difficult to climb the hill to Sacre Couer to attend the mass. The inside of the church is as pretty as the outside with stained glass and inlay work.
EGLISE DE SAINT JULIEN LE PAUVRE (03.05.10)
I took the Paris Walks walking tour of the Latin Quarter and this is one of the first churches that we passed. This church is also one that claims to be the oldest in the city. It construction for this church started in the 12th century, though it took several centuries to finish.
There is an interesting story connected with Saint Julien Le Pauvre. Apparently he was a nobleman and while hunting in the woods one day when a bull stopped him and told him that he will kill his parents one day. Horrified he left the country thinking he will separate himself physically from their presence. After couple of years, his parents came to visit him and he was out of the house. They were tired and his wife suggested that they rest on their bed. Julien came home and found two people sleeping on his bed and assumed that his wife was sleeping with another man and killed both of them without realizing they were his parents.
Horrified, he renounced his riches, and lived the life of a pauper, working for the betterment of the poor. Several years later the same bull reappeared and told him that his penance can stop.
L'EGLISE DE SAINT SEVERIN (03.05.10)
Another stop in the walk through the Latin Quarter was L'Eglise de St Severin. The church is dedicated to Séverin, who is said to have been a hermit who lived there and prayed in a small chapel After Séverin's death, a basilica was constructed on the spot. This was destroyed by the Vikings, and the current church building was started in the 11th century, though its major features are late Gothic and date from the 15th century.
The gargoyles on the outer wall is extremely interesting. The purpose is twofold – to scare away the evil spirits and also to ensure that the rain water does not run down the wall of the church.
The pillars of the church are fashioned to look like palm trees. There are several lovely stained glass windows. The stained glass of Jesus blessing children has an unusual ‘modern’ face looking in, sporting a mustache and without a halo. It was found to be the painter’s friend Charles Garnier.
Another stop in the walk through the Latin Quarter was L'Eglise de St Severin. The church is dedicated to Séverin, who is said to have been a hermit who lived there and prayed in a small chapel After Séverin's death, a basilica was constructed on the spot. This was destroyed by the Vikings, and the current church building was started in the 11th century, though its major features are late Gothic and date from the 15th century.
The gargoyles on the outer wall is extremely interesting. The purpose is twofold – to scare away the evil spirits and also to ensure that the rain water does not run down the wall of the church.
The pillars of the church are fashioned to look like palm trees. There are several lovely stained glass windows. The stained glass of Jesus blessing children has an unusual ‘modern’ face looking in, sporting a mustache and without a halo. It was found to be the painter’s friend Charles Garnier.
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